Peter Lauer - Riesling No. 17 Neuenberg Grand Cru 2022 (750ml)

Lauer’s Neuenberg is one of the most curious, most complex wines he makes. As always with Lauer, the terroir is to blame.

The “Neuenberg” too slimmed down a lot this year; in fact, it is for the first time (I believe?) it is dry, with only 9 grams of residual sugar. The wine is sourced from a cherry parcel in the Grand Cru Kupp, one that sees the cool morning sun as well as the warmer afternoon sun and, situated as it is at the bottom of the slope, it can often have a bit of mist or fog lingering about. While normally Lauer might include a bit of early botrytis, for 2023 there is none. In fact, Lauer did multiple, strict passes through the site to pick only 100% clean grapes. The result is one of the lightest-ever feeling Neuenbergs. This is a bonkers wine; it is also always one of Lauer’s rarest wines.

Thus we have in Neuenberg one of Florian’s most dazzling wines. It is luxurious and textural and glycerin-rich and layered. It is the Saar’s response to the generosity and exoticism of a wine like Meursault Genevrieres. A good decant or a few years in the cellar can do a lot bring out the depth of this wine. Pair with a ****ing steak.